STEP 5.


Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn-on wire (usually a blue wire). The turn-on wire will "tell" your amplifier to turn on whenever the receiver is powered up (usually, whenever the vehicle is turned on).

Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio, wrap the blue turn on lead (included with the amp wiring kit) around it, and solder. Or, use crimp connectors and a crimp tool to connect the blue turn on lead to the wire coming from the radio. Wrap the solder or crimp connection with electrical tape (or use a heat gun to apply heat shrink tubing) to guard against a short. Using wire ties (included with the kit) to secure the wire, route the blue turn on lead behind your dash all the way over to the place where the red power wire comes through the firewall.
Making the signal connections

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STEP 4.


Attach the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not directly to the battery post itself). For top-mounted battery posts, the most common way to do this is to crimp a ring terminal onto the end of the power cable (most cables in wiring kits come with it already attached). Remove the battery terminal's nut, slip the power cable's ring over the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post, and replace the nut. For GM vehicles with a side-mount post, we offer an adapter that works nicely.

Thread the wire loom (included with some kits) over the red power cable until it reaches the firewall and cut to fit. Thread another piece over the short power wire running from the fuse holder to the battery.

Anchor the fuse holder to a suitable spot with a self-tapping screw (see photo above).


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Step 3.


The red power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder installed. If so, go to step. If not, find a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse-holder (included in the kit) — less than 6" from the battery is best. Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire (to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location), and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper.

Crimp the terminal ring (included in the kit) onto one end of the short piece of wire, and crimp the fuse holder onto the other end. Strip the insulation off the end of the red power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder.

Fuse installed on power wire, and secured in engine compartment.


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Making the power connections

1. Set the parking brake and disconnect the negative terminal from your battery to prevent any electrical short.

Route the red wire from your amp wiring kit through a hole in your vehicle's firewall.

2. Remove the red power wire from your amp wiring kit (usually 16-20 feet in length). Locate a hole on the firewall; most cars have a predrilled one you can use. If not, you'll have to find a good place to drill one. If you have problems, contact Crutchfield technical support at the phone number listed on your invoice. Once you've found or drilled a suitable hole, run the power wire through the hole into the engine compartment.


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IMPORTANT:

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for mounting the amp and make sure it's
secure. An amp that isn't secure could break loose in an accident and injure a passenger as it flies through the vehicle.

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AMP mounting locations:

* On the firewall (passenger side).
Pros: Short wires and patch cords required. You won't have to remove a seat or climb into the trunk.
Cons: Only very small amps fit here. Closer to some common noise sources.
* In the trunk or hatch area.
Pros: Plenty of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers.
Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords required. If working in the trunk, tape over the latch, so you won't get trapped inside accidentally.
* Under a seat.
Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cables and signal cables, which are less prone to noise and signal degradation. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation. Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS system. Larger amps might not fit. You must elevate the amp to avoid contact with water from rain or snow brought in on passengers' shoes.

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Planning ahead:

Choosing your location according to these guidelines will help your installation go smoothly:
* The amp should be at least three feet from the receiver to avoid noise radiated from the vehicle's electrical system. The amp can also interfere with the receiver's AM/FM reception.
* An amp produces some heat during operation, which its heatsink absorbs and radiates, so it needs a few inches of air space to stay as cool as possible. When mounting an amp on a side wall, make sure the fins on the heatsink are vertical. Never mount an amp upside down, as dissipated heat will radiate back into the amp.
* There must be enough room on either side to make the wiring connections and adjust the controls (gain, crossover, bass boost, etc.).


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