Friday, February 29, 2008


Attach the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not directly to the battery post itself). For top-mounted battery posts, the most common way to do this is to crimp a ring terminal onto the end of the power cable (most cables in wiring kits come with it already attached). Remove the battery terminal's nut, slip the power cable's ring over the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post, and replace the nut. For GM vehicles with a side-mount post, we offer an adapter that works nicely.

Thread the wire loom (included with some kits) over the red power cable until it reaches the firewall and cut to fit. Thread another piece over the short power wire running from the fuse holder to the battery.

Anchor the fuse holder to a suitable spot with a self-tapping screw (see photo above).

For AMP Accessories, connectors, wire and more go to:

Monday, February 25, 2008

Step 3.

The red power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder installed. If so, go to step. If not, find a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse-holder (included in the kit) — less than 6" from the battery is best. Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire (to cover the distance from the battery to the fuse holder location), and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire stripper.

Crimp the terminal ring (included in the kit) onto one end of the short piece of wire, and crimp the fuse holder onto the other end. Strip the insulation off the end of the red power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to the other end of the fuse holder.

Fuse installed on power wire, and secured in engine compartment.

For Power wire and more go to:

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Making the power connections

1. Set the parking brake and disconnect the negative terminal from your battery to prevent any electrical short.

Route the red wire from your amp wiring kit through a hole in your vehicle's firewall.

2. Remove the red power wire from your amp wiring kit (usually 16-20 feet in length). Locate a hole on the firewall; most cars have a predrilled one you can use. If not, you'll have to find a good place to drill one. If you have problems, contact Crutchfield technical support at the phone number listed on your invoice. Once you've found or drilled a suitable hole, run the power wire through the hole into the engine compartment.

For AMP Accessories, connectors, wire and more go to:

Saturday, February 23, 2008


Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for mounting the amp and make sure it's
secure. An amp that isn't secure could break loose in an accident and injure a passenger as it flies through the vehicle.

For more Stereo Accessories go to:

Thursday, February 21, 2008

AMP mounting locations:

* On the firewall (passenger side).
Pros: Short wires and patch cords required. You won't have to remove a seat or climb into the trunk.
Cons: Only very small amps fit here. Closer to some common noise sources.
* In the trunk or hatch area.
Pros: Plenty of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers.
Cons: You sacrifice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords required. If working in the trunk, tape over the latch, so you won't get trapped inside accidentally.
* Under a seat.
Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cables and signal cables, which are less prone to noise and signal degradation. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No cargo space sacrificed.
Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation. Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle's SRS system. Larger amps might not fit. You must elevate the amp to avoid contact with water from rain or snow brought in on passengers' shoes.

For AMP Accessories, connectors, wire and more go to:

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Planning ahead:

Choosing your location according to these guidelines will help your installation go smoothly:
* The amp should be at least three feet from the receiver to avoid noise radiated from the vehicle's electrical system. The amp can also interfere with the receiver's AM/FM reception.
* An amp produces some heat during operation, which its heatsink absorbs and radiates, so it needs a few inches of air space to stay as cool as possible. When mounting an amp on a side wall, make sure the fins on the heatsink are vertical. Never mount an amp upside down, as dissipated heat will radiate back into the amp.
* There must be enough room on either side to make the wiring connections and adjust the controls (gain, crossover, bass boost, etc.).

For AMP Accessories, connectors, wire and more go to:

Monday, February 11, 2008


Tools needed, depending on vehicle

A note about wiring: In addition to the tools listed above, your amp installation will require power and ground wiring, plus RCA cables, terminals, and a remote turn-on lead. The easiest way to get all of these items is in an amplifier wiring kit, available ad:

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Amplifier Installation Guide

Guide to amplifier installation.

This installation guide offers examples of amplifier installation types and suggested system layouts. The installation of your amplifier will depend on the make and body style of your vehicle, as well as the equipment purchased.

For Stereo Accessories, connectors, wire, speaker wire and more go to:

Friday, February 8, 2008

Plan your project

It should take about eight to ten hours to complete. The orignal panel was held on by clips. One tug and it was off.

The speaker wires are routed under the door sill and through Q-logic kick panel. Note: there are 2 sets--one for the woofer, and the other for the tweeter.

For Stereo wire, speaker wire and more go to:

Wednesday, February 6, 2008


Hide all the wires the best you can. Use electrical tape, wire ties and tubing to conceal your work. And don’t get rid of that diagram just yet—put it somewhere safe in the car.

In case you have a problem later on it will be easier to pull that out than trying to remember! Now install the fuse, turn on the car and see how she sounds.

For Stereo Accessories, connectors, wire, speaker wire and more go to:

Tuesday, February 5, 2008


The MB Quart speakers came with crossovers. A crossover is a device that restricts and separates the range of frequencies sent to the speaker. I mounted four crossovers (one per speaker), in the trunk near the amp for easier connection. Connect each speaker’s woofer and tweeter (+/-) terminals to the corresponding OUTPUT terminals on the crossover. Now connect the amp’s output terminals to the INPUT on each of the crossovers. It might sound complicated, but if you follow the manufactures’ instructions carefully, the improvement in sound is well worth the time, labor and extra speaker wire. After the wires are routed, speakers are mounted and the subwoofer is in place, follow the diagram provided with the amp for the correct hook up.

Wire connectors, speaker wire and more:

Monday, February 4, 2008


When the speakers and subwoofer are in place, route the wires back to the amp. For the front speakers, run the wires on the same side as the signal cables and turn-on lead that you ran earlier. Make sure to hide the wires for the rear speakers somewhere in the trunk as they’re the only components that are wired by themselves.

For Primary wire, speaker wire and more go to:

Sunday, February 3, 2008

When selecting speakers consider this:

Are you just replacing the stock system or do you want to do a custom job? I went with a 4x1 custom system because I didn’t want to rip apart my doors to replace the factory speakers. To solve this, I used Q-Logic’s Q-Forms Kick Panel speaker enclosures that discreetly and unobtrusively hold the MB Quart’s QSD 213 front 5-1/4 inch speakers at the drivers and passenger’s feet while directing their sound in the right direction. Q-Forms are available for over 500 different model cars, come in multiple colors to match your interior and are indistinguishable from the factory finish. Q-Logic also made a custom subwoofer enclosure that fits the 12 inch MB Quart’s DWG 304 perfectly. It tucks the bass-box neatly into the passenger’s side rear-well, saving cargo space, which, in a sports car, is particularly valuable.

For Stereo Accessories, connectors, wire, speaker wire and more go to:

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Install Your Speakers And Sub:

The speakers (and subwoofer) make the system. A great set can make even a stock radio sound great yet selecting a good set requires more than just comparing specs. Get out into show rooms and find a set that matches your acoustic preferences—this is not the time to settle.

After many hours of in-store testing, I selected the MB Quart line by Maxxonics. MB Quart has been developing and manufacturing speaker systems for more than 30 years and they’ve learned a thing or two about audio production in that time—they turned my car into a sound experience. Here are the specs:

Stereo's and more go to:

Friday, February 1, 2008


For safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal before connecting the amp's power lead.

Look for pre-existing holes through which you can route the amps power wire through the firewall.

Clearly marked preouts on the back of the radio connect to the amp (in the trunk).

Tuck your wires under the door trim hides the wires.

The rca cables from the radio connect to the left side of the amp.

Connect the ground wire to a bolt in the trunk via a nut a lock washer. Remember to sand around the hole--the ground needs to touch bare metal.

For Stereo Accessories, connectors, wire, speaker wire and more go to: